Epoxy Flooring Basics

Wolverine Coatings Corporation's "100% Solids" epoxy products are the ideal protective coating for your garage, shop, manufacturing facility, or warehouse. They cure to a durable, attractive, glossy surface with outstanding chemical, corrosion, abrasion, and impact resistance. Plain gray concrete, whether brand new or old and worn, is transformed into a beautifully finished, seamless floor that's easy to clean and maintain!

A quick note here - There are many "epoxy floor coatings," but they are not equal! The Wolverine Coatings' system is a premium epoxy product. Originally formulated for the most extreme industrial and commercial environments and applications, it is now being made available to the general public.

"100% Solids" means that Wolverine epoxy coatings are environmentally friendly, having no solvents, no water, and very little or no Volatile Organic Compounds. That assures you of an easy to apply, safe, low odor, nonflammable application with a quick cure, and virtually no shrinkage. The amount you purchase and apply will be the amount that remains after the epoxy cures.

Other inferior epoxies contain water and solvents. As those coatings cure, the water or solvent molecules leave "trails" as they migrate through the epoxy to the surface, where they eventually dissipate. Most of these 'trails' are formed when the coating is solidifying and can not refill itself, so they are permanent. Compare it to a block of wood that's had hundreds of small holes drilled through it. Those trails weaken the epoxy and leave a path for intrusive fluids and contaminants. Contrast that to Wolverine 100% solid epoxies - Since there are no volatile compounds to evaporate, there are no residual trails to undermine the epoxy's integrity. This leaves a more dense superior coating that will provide years of service, protection, and enjoyment.

Even before you start to coat, you want a solid floor. If your floor has cracks and/or expansion or contraction joints, you can easily fill them before you epoxy, that will give you a smooth floor, which looks great and is easier to clean and maintain. To fill those cracks use Wolverine's IntegraFlex 1921, a 2 part 100% solids epoxy that will remain flexible to expand and contract with minor movements of the substrate.

From the bottom layer to the clear coat, here's how the Wolverine system stacks up:

Any successful project begins with a strong foundation. Our primer, BondTite 1101, provides solid and firm adhesion to properly prepared concrete. It physically hooks into the concrete pores while also chemically bonding with the substrate, providing a perfect platform for the next component, LiquaTile 1184.

LiquaTile 1184 is the body of our system. Based on Advanced Hybrid Cycloaliphatic technology, combined with proprietary ceramic content, LiquaTile 1184 is extremely hard - yet flexible. Its flexibility allows it to absorb impact shocks and to expand and contract with the underlying concrete, minimizing stress and reducing the possibility of concrete cracks, while its hardness enables it to resist abrasion for long term durability. It's the ideal combination of application ease, durability, longevity, and great looks. LiquaTile 1184 is available in 18 color shades.

DecoFlakes 130, if desired, are applied next. If applied thick enough, these vinyl flakes will add surface texture. Available in various colors, they can be easily mixed for that custom look. Choose DecoFlake 130 and LiquaTile 1184 colors to compliment your house colors, vehicles, or even your tool chest!

Finally, a protective clear coat is applied to protect the DecoFlakes 130 and pigmented LiquaTile 1184.

This clear coat can be another layer of BondTite 1101. Note, however, that most all epoxies, including BondTite 1101, may yellow when exposed to UV or sun light. Although this does not affect the durability of the epoxy system, it may affect its appearance. So for outdoor applications and floor areas with high UV or sun light exposure we offer EnduraShield 2254. A 90% solids urethane hybrid, EnduraShield 2254 cures to a crystal clear, UV resistant, extremely hard, high gloss finish. EnduraShield 2254 itself is "outdoor durable," meaning it will not yellow is full sun light, however any underlying epoxy may still color shift slightly.

NOTE: This information and these instructions are primarily for Wolverine Coatings' BondTite 1101 and LiquaTile 1184. Please inquire for information about other Wolverine products.

Concrete

A coating is only as good as the surface on which it's applied. So before breaking out the paint brush you must determine if your concrete is ready to be coated. Here are six main concrete conditions to consider and look for:

CONCRETE PREPARATION

Thorough preparation maximizes adhesion and adds to the life of the coatings. This requires that the floor be properly prepared by mechanical and/or wet chemical methods. The surface should be clean and the surface texture should be between 5 mils and 10 mils, which means it should feel about as rough as 80 grit sandpaper.

CLEANING FOR OIL OR GREASE SPOTS:

Mechanical preparation methods might push contamination deeper into the porous concrete surface, so it's important to remove any oil or grease spots on your floor before acid etching, grinding, or shot blasting.

Use a scrub brush and a cleaner/degreaser such as a Wolverine's OrganiClean 935. Wet the area, apply cleaner, and scrub the spot thoroughly. For best results, the fouled rinse water should be pushed out of the area with a foam squeegee or sucked up by a wet/dry vacuum. Keep entire section wet until the whole area has been cleaned and rinsed. Do not leave pooled water on the floor. Stubborn or heavy residue areas may require repeated cleaning applications. Thoroughly rinse with fresh water and let dry.

STRIPPING / SCRAPING:

A stripper solution can be applied to previously coated concrete surfaces, and the old coatings may be scraped off using a paint scraper. Wolverine's OrganiStrip products are easy-to-use water-based strippers that can help remove old coatings. Depending on the properties of previous coatings, numerous stripper applications may be required. The stripper and scraper alone may not adequately remove certain coatings, in which case mechanical methods, like grinding or shot blasting, might be the best option.

CONCRETE PATCHING FOR LOOSE OR DAMAGED CONCRETE:

If the concrete is loose, chipping (spalled) or has concrete dust present, the coating will not perform properly. All loose material and dust must be removed and damaged areas repaired. Hairline cracks may be filled-in with epoxy coatings and might not require special attention. Divots and pits will not affect adhesion, but you may wish to repair them for a smoother and better looking finished coating. Divots, pits can be repaired with Wolverine's TrowelEase 1161 Patch Kit, while cracks can be filled with IntegraFlex 1921, both patching compounds are formulated to work with the entire family of Wolverine Coatings epoxies.

When using TrowelEase 1161 or InteraFlex 1921 clean the areas then patch or fill. After fillers are tack free, you can apply the next coat.

GRINDING / SURFACING:

Grinding may be used to remove existing coatings, and level out high spots. This method uses horizontal rotating disks to leave a smooth surface texture; so smooth you may need to rough it up a bit with high pressure water or a chemical etch. For the Do-It-Yourselfer this might be the best method.

Grinders are available for rent at many "big box" stores and construction equipment rental yards. A good model to look for is the EDCO disc grinder with their Dyma-Serts (avoid "stones," they don't work). See equipment supplier for applications, use instructions, and precautions.

SHOT BLASTING:

Shot blasting removes thin coatings, cleans the concrete surface, and gives your floor a rough profile. A degreaser may be necessary prior to shot-blasting if floor has an accumulation of grease and oil. Shot blasting can be aggressive and care must be taken to not over blast. Equipment can be hard to find, prices vary widely and are generally costlier than floor grinders.

CUTTING / KEYING:

A masonry saw, a diamond blade on either a circular saw or angle grinder, can be used to cut small ¼ inch deep grooves around drains, doors and transitions. This process, known as "keying", will provide anchor points for the epoxy system to adhere to, reducing the potential for failure.

WATER PRESSURE CLEANING:

Water is sprayed at high pressure (5,000-40,000 psi) with enough force to remove contamination and loose concrete, and texture the concrete surface. No dust is generated. This method can be used in tight spaces and eliminates the need for harsh chemicals. Time must be allowed for the surface to thoroughly dry.

ETCHING TO IMPROVE FLOOR TEXTURE AND REMOVE LAITENANCE:

Acid etching alone will not profile surfaces that have been treated with sealers or still have previous coatings.

When there are no more contaminants, sealants, or pre-existing coatings, chemical etching can create the correct sandpaper-like profile. We strongly recommend Wolverine Coatings OrganiPrep 921 to safely and easily etch your floor and remove any "laitenance," a thin, hard, skin that can form as concrete is finished.

Acid etching with muriatic acid is not as safe but acceptable. Muriatic acid is an aggressive acid ad extreme care must be taken due to its caustic nature, hazardous vapors, and the difficulty in removing all traces of the acid from the floor. If you need to dilute the acid do not pour the water into the acid, always add the acid to the water! See product label for complete instructions and warnings. The floor must be neutralized to a pH of 7.0 to 8.5 after acid etching and thoroughly rinsed and completely dried. Muriatic acid is far less user and environmentally friendly than Wolverine Coatings' OrganiPrep products, which are biodegradable. Some floors may require more than one etching.

FILLING IN EXPANSION JOINTS:

It is extremely difficult to completely hide an expansion joint; therefore it is recommended to fill it in as much possible with a self-leveling, flexible sealant. The expansion joints allow the concrete to move without cracking it. Use a self-leveling sealant (flexible coating) such as a Wolverine Coatings' IntegraFlex 1921 if you wish to fill in expansion joints. Be sure to "V" notch the cracks before filling.

Climate Conditions

Your concrete substrate is the first variable, and most concrete issues can be dealt with. The second variable that affects application is a bit more difficult to control -

The Weather!

Amine Blush

Amine blush (or epoxy blush) is caused by the adsorption of moisture and Co2 during the curing phase. This can cause an oily, waxy, or white film to be formed on the cured layer. Although this frequently occurs with other epoxies it rarely happens with Wolverine epoxies, however you should check for it before applying subsequent recoats. If it is present, simply wipe down the surface with denatured alcohol and then it dry with clean lint free towels, when the surface is dry you can continue with the coating process.

Here are a few scenarios you want to avoid because they may cause Amine Blush:

• The air temperature during the curing process is less than 5°f above the dew point
• The air temperature is less than 40f and dropping
• The air temperature is cold and you have high humidity
• Using a direct burn heater that emits water vapor and Co2

Sizing up the Task

If you're getting ready to place your order, you'll need to know how many square feet you need to cover. If you've already received your order, you'll want to double check to make certain you received enough material to complete your floor.

For the record: One gallon of liquid (any liquid - milk, water, cola, epoxy) will cover a surface area of 1,604 square feet to a depth of 1 mil. So, if your garage floor was exactly 1,604 sq ft it would need 5 gallons of BondTite 1101 to coat it to the recommended minimum depth of 5 mils. And if the floor area is 320 sq ft, just 1 gallon would provide the same depth of coverage. If that liquid has a solvent (which Wolverine Coatings epoxies do not, they are 100% Solids epoxy) the cured coverage depth will be proportionally thinner. An epoxy with 50% solids will cure to only half of its wet thickness, with the other half dissipating into the air.

Use the following table to figure out how much material you'll need:

The chart above shows the coverage at our minimum recommended thickness. Some epoxy manufacturers base their coverage claims on depths less than a half of our recommendations, and their results suffer. If you want to go that route to lower your costs, that's your decision. We've found that our minimums provide the best performance and protection, which is why we recommend them.

Keep in mind that there will be some epoxy that will be tough to get out of the bucket, there will be some more left in the paint brush or roller, and there might be some spillage and waste, figure about 10%- 15%. Also, depending on the concrete profile, cracks, and expansion joints, you might need a bit more BondTite 1101 primer. Additionally, if you have a heavy coating of DecoFlakes 130, you will need a bit more BondTite 110 or EnduraShield 2254 for the clear coat.

NOTE: In order to get at as much epoxy as possible you might be tempted to scrape every last drop out of the mixture container, or even turn it upside down to drain the last drop, DO NOT DO THAT! The danger is that some material which is not completely mixed will be applied to the floor, and it will not fully cure, remaining soft.

All epoxies and following coats must be applied within certain time limits. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH MATERIAL TO FINISH!

A quick example: Bert has a 2 car garage that is 25 feet wide by 28 feet deep, he'll need to cover 700 square feet (25 x 28).

This will require a minimum of 2.18 gallons (700 ÷ 320) of BondTite 1101 for the primer coat, 5.75 gallons (700 ÷ 133) of LiquaTile 1184 for the body, and another 2.18 gallons of BondTite 1101 as the clear coat. Bert should order a minimum 4.5 gallons of the BondTite 1101 and 6 gallons of LiquaTile 1184.

Flakes & Support Materials

Yes, the chips are fun to apply, they add to the durability and strength of your finished floor, and they really add a lot to the final look, but before we deal with them we need to consider a few other items that you might want to include in your order.

Wolverine DecoFlakes 130 chips can help hide slight concrete defects, while adding color and personality. Density can be from very light coverage, which adds visual accents and helps mask imperfections and dirt, to full coverage, which can provide additional texture and unique look.

How much DecoFlakes 130 chips should you order? It all depends on the square footage that needs to be covered, and the final appearance you want. Here's a good guide:

The DecoFlakes are broadcast on top of (not mixed in to) the LiquaTile 1184 body layer and must be covered with a clear coat of either BondTite 1101 or EnduraShield 2254.

Equipment Checklist

By now the concrete substrate is all prepped and cleaned, areas not to be coated are taped and covered, you have enough epoxy material to do the deed, your DecoFlakes 130 are ready, and you're all set to begin putting down your primer coat, right?

Well… not quite yet.

When the two parts that make up a batch of epoxy are mixed the "pot life" countdown clock starts ticking. That's the amount of time you have to apply the mixed epoxy until it gets too hard to work with. That time can go pretty quickly, so you want to be sure you have all the tools you'll need handy and set to go. An extra set of hands is also helpful!

Here are the tools you might need:

	QUAN.	ITEM	NOTES
	1	9" - 18" Paint roller frame	We recommend an extension handle also.
	3 (min)	3/8" to 1/2" Nap roller covers	Make sure they are LINT and SHED FREE!
	3 (min)	Brushes (for trim work)	Recommended - as needed.
		Chip brush	To coat hard to reach areas or tight borders.
		Tape (for trim work)	Optional - as needed. Use good quality duct tape.
		Notched squeegee	Notched to control the coating depth. Helpful with thicker coats, like LiquaTile 1184, usually not necessary for primer and clear coats.
		Protection cloth or paper	Use to mask off "no paint" areas & protect doors.
		Buckets for mixing	As needed. Note: With the 3 quart & 3 gallon kits the larger "part A" can is big enough to accommodate smaller "part B" can contents. But that will require you to mix a full 3 quart or 3 gallon batch. If you want to work with smaller batches you will need additional mixing containers. Use clean containers with measurement markings.
		Graduated cups and measuring containers	For measuring out correct portions if mixing less than full kits. Be certain container material is compatible with our liquid coatings. Use clear containers with measurements marked on the outside of container.
		Shop Vac - wet & dry	Optional - as needed
		Stiff bristle broom	To clean concrete and excess DecoFlakes 130
		6" scraper (plastic blade preferred)	Needed if applying DecoFlakes 130
		Spiked shoes	Extremely recommended. If you're coating a large area, or broadcasting DecoFlakes 130, you need spikes.
		MEK or other solvent, such as denatured alcohol, for cleaning	Methyl Ethyl Ketone - available locally.
		Drill motor and mixing attachment	You will need a drill with a mixing attachment. Hand mixing with a paddle will not work. Many attachments require the larger ½" chuck. Check to make certain that the mixing attachment fits your drill beforehand. Avoid light duty drill motors.
		Gloves & safety glasses	Required - as needed
		Cardboard or tarp	Place next to floor so you have a working area that you can step onto without tracking epoxy. Use material that is impervious to liquids so that spills do not seep through and stain underlying surfaces.
		Trowel or Bondo blade	To apply and smooth IntegraFlex 1921.

Prep Time

Guidelines for BondTite 1101 and
LiquaTile 1184 Coatings

Let's Roll

BondTite 1101 Primer Coating